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Matienzo Caving - background information
Updated May 2009

The main Matienzo Expeditions occur around Easter and from the last week of July to the middle of August. Visits occur at other times, e.g. October / November, Christmas/New Year, February and Whit week.
New cavers, experienced and novice, are welcome: fresh perspectives and enthusiasm often leads to new cave discoveries!
This page gives a flavour of what goes on above and below the Matienzo area.


Contents
The Area
Permissions, Grants and Fees
Camping and Catering
Caving Organisation
People
Caving
Caving Areas
Publications
Cave marking
Conclusions
More information
Shortened Bibliography

The Area
The 26km2 enclosed depression of Matienzo has taken some 2 to 3 million years to form. The imperviously-floored valley is surrounded by limestone hills containing hundreds of kilometres of cave. Water resurges into the basin at a number of points and leaves at the northern end.

A major Spanish expedition took place in the area in the summer of 1964. British-led caving expeditions to Matienzo have been occuring up to 3 or 4 times a year since the late 60‘s and the amount of known cave passage has risen from some five or six km to 292km (May 2009). At present, three to five kilometres of cave are found each year, although in 1989 over 15km was surveyed, in 2004 some 10.7km and in 2008 over 13km. Collaboration with Spanish caving groups often results in new cave exploration. An area map shows the major caves.
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Permissions, Grants and Fees
Permission to cave is given by Spanish speleological authorities within both geographical (about 96km2) and time limits. We were refused permission to cave during 1990 because caving occurred outside our designated area in the previous year. Please do not cave beyond the permit boundaries. The permit runs for the full year.

Good relations are kept with the villagers, the caving authorities, other spanish caving groups and the Guardia. We have the support of the Ghar Parau Foundation which recommended a UK Sport grant of £600 to Matienzo 2001, £750 to Matienzo 2002, £200 to Matienzo 2003, £400 to Matienzo 2004, £450 to Matienzo 2006, £250 to Matienzo 2007, £300 to Matienzo 2008 and £400 to Matienzo 2009. To supplement this, the expedition asks for donations of €30 maximum from all non-wage-earning cavers, and €3 per day from wage-earning cavers up to a maximum of €42. This covers all group equipment (ladders, rope, bolts, rescue equipment, etc), surveying, publication costs, some photographic and IT costs. A proportion is paid to Pablo for the use of the restaurant as a survey / drawing up area. (There is also a charge for camping - see below).
Sponsored by Laptopbits
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Camping and Catering
Tents can be erected on the field behind the bar. (Location map is pdf with note attached. )Only the eastern half of the field should be used and, as it is used for grass crop, vehicles should only drive on when the ground is dry and hard. 'Domestic' refuse should be disposed of in the wheelie bin found on the road.

There is a toilet block in the middle of the campsite which has showers, wash basins and toilets: an outside tap is for drinking / cooking water and washing small items of personal gear and equipment. There is a rota for giving the facilities a quick wipe over. This water has to be paid for and should not be wasted. Therefore group tackle (ropes, ladders, etc) should be washed in the river.

A room in the block acts as a tackle store and is used for charging electric cells. Pablo at the bar charges €3 per adult per night for camping, up to a maximum of €60. This will be collected by the expedition and paid to Pablo in a lump sum at the end.

Everyone looks after themselves for catering, although alternative food arrangements can be made when long trips are likely. The tackle store has an ancient microwave and a new fridge with small freezer compartment. There are supermarkets on the way to the beach or at Ramales, the nearest large town where travellers cheques can be cashed or cash cards used. Many oldtimers find a cool box and ice packs (re-frozen in the deep freeze at the bar or in the tackle store) a necessity to keep meat and veg edible. The restaurant, at the edge of the campsite, opened in 1994, has also altered some eating habits, as have the meals at Bar Tomas. There is often an expedition meal (or 2!) at the height of the caving frenzy.

Pablo and Anna at the bar have been very amenable about supplying late butties, up to about midnight, but this depends on the supply of bread and cannot be relied upon. The bar opens at about 10 to 10-30am (depending on the previous night's activities) and will serve an English breakfast or egg butties, etc. Bread is delivered to the bar around 10-30am. People can buy straight from the van and pay for it individually.

In recent years hostel accomodation has become available in the village, eg at Cubillas (opposite the Baker's Bar) and bed and breakfast is available at the Anjana near Ramales and Bar Tomás in Ogarrio.
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Caving Organisation
Most of the cavers who come to Matienzo are not here primarily for the sport - they are people fascinated by the potential of the area and who pit their speleological wits against the draughting holes, deep shafts and tight crawls which could lead to 'caverns measureless'.

Caving trips occur because a number of people see the need for them. There are few organised 'tourist trips' - the best way to see the caves is to get involved in a series of working trips - pushing, surveying, photographing etc. Anyone can organise a trip and, apart from the specialised (e.g. diving) ventures, all trips should be open to everyone. Obviously, each team on a major push/survey will have at least one person who has been in the system before and might well be the 'system expert'. Because systems tend to be pushed over a number of years, it is better that as many people as possible get to know a cave, rather than just one team. British caving clubs count for nothing in Matienzo - we are the "Matienzo Caving Club"; everyone should feel part of a whole expedition and be prepared to cave with anyone of similar caving aptitude.

Trip Sheets can be used to aid the organisation of the various parties that are likely to set off each day. The initial details of cave, objectives, date and number of cavers required are filled in by the trip leader(s) and cavers can then sign up for whatever takes their fancy.

Every caving team is likely to explore new passage. Each group should survey the passages as they leave the system so that the survey can be computer-drawn later that evening, allowing the next team to concentrate on the best leads. Each team therefore has the responsibility of ensuring that the survey data is converted to co-ordinates the same day and a survey drawn over the computer centre-line print out as soon as possible. An account of the new explorations should be written in the log book immediately and a sober description of the passage should also be written down or spoken onto audio tape in due course.

Generally, information about new passages and sites becomes public as soon as they are found, and shared amongst the expedition members (and eventually on the web site). Anyone can then decide if they want to become involved in the exploration: the person or group that makes the find may invite people onto the next trip or you can ask!. There are some very rare instances where this process may not happen. For example, cavers who found Torca La Vaca near the end of the Easter 2008 expedition were sailing from Santander the next day. Other cavers explored 1.7km in the following days but did not finish the system, deliberating leaving leads for the original finders to push in the summer. The location of this site was not made public until the summer explorations had started.

Surface prospecting and digging are also vital parts of the expedition but they need to be researched before hand. Maps, digital cameras and GPS should be taken into the field. (See Publications and Cave Marking below). The expedition has a digital camera that can be used for surface or underground recording; the expedition and a number of people have GPS equipment for positioning entrances. The GPS coordinates database of entrances can be uploaded into (at least) Garmin and Magellan units but you may need your serial or USB lead. Digital photos (through a card reader) and video can be downloaded into the expedition laptop and / or main computer for future web publication and/or presentations. There are also digital tiles of the area maintained with positions of entrances and cave centre lines. It is perfectly feasible, time permitting, to enter cave centre line data, add extra entrances and print the composite map out for underground or surface activity the next day. The large paper maps are being phased out and print outs from the digital maps are becoming the norm.

We are extremely fortunate in having the use of the bar facilities for a base. We are allowed to use an end of the restaurant as a computer site / library and survey drawing-up area. The restaurant should not be seen as a general extension to the bar as Spaniards (and English) are paying to dine out!
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People
Some members of the expedition have a general responsibility for overseeing certain major aspects. However, individuals should still see themselves as being responsible for the tackle they‘ve used, writing up, survey drawing etc.

  • Juan Corrin: Surface maps, computer/cave surveys, library, publications, web site, permissions (with Pete Smith)
  • Pete Smith: Permissions and archaeology
  • Andy Quin: Web site admin at Lancaster University

The above can advise on areas and/or caves to push as can (at the risk of leaving many people out) Peter Eagan, Lank Mills, Steve Martin, Ali Neill and Phil Papard. Many members of the expedition have expertise in all matters speleological. A number have been around Matienzo for years and will give advice and bull shit! Contact emails are listed here.
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Caving
Personal caving equipment is obviously the responsibility of each caver; lump carbide may be provided - though not in recent years - and FX cells (and other rechargeable cells) can be charged in the tackle store. Group equipment is the responsiblity of the team using it. If a system is detackled, the detackling group should normally clean up at the river the equipment removed. Depending on the cash available, some petrol money may be paid to drivers who transport cavers.

More often than not, digging is required to enter new cave. The expedition has a good supply of digging equipment but it must be noted that a number of caves around Matienzo are important as archaeological sites and that digging may disturb prehistoric levels. Pete Smith has carried out research, working with Spanish archaeologists, and has catalogued the various artifacts and paintings. Please keep your eyes peeled, looking at the walls and floor in any site that may have been inhabited. Pottery is especially easy to miss and tread on. The most common prehistoric pottery is black or black and red when fired. The expedition does not have permission to disturb archaeological remains. Any discoveries found should be left in situ and reported to Juan or Peter who will inform the appropriate authorities.

Everyone should remember that cave formations and deposits are to be enjoyed by all. Hence, thought must be given to minimising damage to caves and the decorations when exploring. If possible, volunteer for any conservation or restoration activities that may be taking place.

Each individual on underground ventures is responsible for his / her own safety and should have a blanket, spare light, etc. Sensible caving procedures should be adopted, e.g. lifelines on most ladder pitches, remembering that rescue is likely to be a protracted and costly affair. Rescue call-out should be via the bar and to the Guardia. A number of the expedition are current or ex-CRO members and would organise rescue procedures. Taking out BCRA Insurance, ActivCard or a similar scheme is vital for peace of mind and pocket. Details of 2009 insurance prices can be found from the BCRA web site or on ActivCard.  People without caving insurance are not permitted to cave. Details of next of kin, insurance policy numbers, etc. are taken as you arrive on camp or at the bar.
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Caving Areas
Within our 94km2 there are caves and pots of all sizes. The major cave networks are the 4 Valleys System at over 51km long and the South Vega System at 31.4km long and 305m depth. We have collaborated with Catalan cavers in pushing Cueva Vallina (31.6km long) near Arredondo to the south. Pushing these systems is a priority, as is finding new caves from the surface. The area does not have a great depth potential: the maximum is about 680m.

The area map shows the main caves, roads and rivers. The following thumbnail descriptions aim to give a general feel of the area.
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The South Vega System (survey)
Azpilicueta (333) and Coteron (264) are the high level entrances which drop down to valley level and emerge at Reñada (48). Cueva-Cubio de la Reñada contains a river which resurges into the depression to flow across La Vega; some of this water could come from Hoyon (567). Potential lies to the south (with Cueva Valline) and to the west.

North Vega (survey)
Torcon de la Calleja Rebollo (Toad in the Hole - 258) is an expanding system which could go anywhere: northeast to link with Mostajo (71), north and west into the unknown or even south to link with Reñada. Mostajo (71) could go northwest to emerge in cave 415, or north into the unknown. Caves are mainly dry but have large quantities of mud in the lower sections.

Cubio Regaton-Mostajo has a length of 19.3km, is in a prime position for extension, and is still wide-open in places.

The area of Cobadal may also connect through the 6km long Sumidero de Cobadal into the North Vega System. The resurging river of Fuente Aguanaz (713) (survey), 7km to the north is the current (dye-tested) resurgence for Cobadal water. Torca La Vaca is another stream and fossil cave which was found over Easter 2008 and is "still going". A recent extension to the area, another 9 sq km centred around Ideopuerta, may also feed into a possible Regaton, Cobadal, Fuente Aguanaz system.

The Four Valleys System (survey)
Nearly all the water in the Matienzo depression leaves through Carcavuezo (81), passes through Cueva Llueva (114), with an entrance in Llueva Valley, and resurges in Los Boyonnes (117) in Secadura. The cave is fed from water in Cueva Hoyuca (Uzueka) (107) which in turn is fed by water in Cueva Riano (105). The caves of Hoyuca, Riano, Llueva and Carcavuezo have been joined to give over 51km length. Some estimates put the potential passage at more than 100km. The Five Valleys System is a real possibility with Cueva Torno at Fresnedo nearly linked.

Muela/Mullir
This area is approximately 10 km2 of high level karst with little horizontal development. There are more than 200 known shafts, by no means all explored. There is plenty of surface prospecting and underground exploration waiting to be done. If an integrated drainage system exists, the resurgence could be the one below Cobrantes (110). It seems more likely that local networks exist with water resurging at various points around the mountain, e.g. at Ogarrio, and into known systems, e.g. Llueva, Carcavuezo.
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Publications and research
There are more than 260 references to various articles (Spanish and English) and log books; many of these are in boxes in the back room of the bar. If you are interested in a site:
 - look in the card index where all explorations and accounts are catalogued and then
 - read up the various references.
The books likely to be of most use for general reading are listed below in a short bibliography. (Full bibliography).

Maps are available for the whole of our area at a scale of 1:5000 (1cm = 50m) and 1:25000. The large maps had all known cave sites plotted on and so must not leave the bar. There are A3 photocopied sections of these maps which can accompany everyone who is surface prospecting. Plastic wallets are available for weather proofing. (see Cave Marking, below). More recently, digital maps covering our area are printed out when required, with cave passage and entrances shown and at any scale - this is now (2009) the preferred method.

All sites details are kept in a card index, computer database and web site descriptions.

A paper publication (Matienzo Underground) circulates, based on cave descriptions from the web site, and people should feel free to add to it or amend it. Appendices order the caves by length, depth and altitude. There is also a list of the 'unexplored' sites, a list of digs, and sites of archaeological and biological interest.
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Cave Marking
It is very difficult to permanently mark sites without disfiguring the limestone! Before 1994 we used cow-tags which had painted and embossed numbers. This system has fallen out of favour. However, there is now much less need to mark caves as personal GPS equipment (without the wobble) became useable in 2000 and now WAAS-enabled devices allow altitude accuracy to 3 or 4m. The settings / datum should be UTM/UPS and European 1979 to agree with the paper and digital maps.
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Conclusions
There are over 3200 sites in the area and the potential for finding new passage remains as high as ever. But please remember to record your finds (describe, photograph and survey) so that exploration does not have to be repeated!
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More information
Contacts for more information are listed here.

Shortened Bibliography (mainly in English)

Matienzo Underground - the bi-annually updated book, based on the web site. This shows the current state of (written) knowledge about the caves around Matienzo. There is only one copy that can be consulted at the bar.

(A) Fernandez Gutierrez et al, 1966. La depresion cerrada de Matienzo, Cuadernos de Espeleologia vol 2. 107pp + surveys & photos. The account of the original Spanish explorations.
(C) Kendal Caving Club/Manchester University Speleological Society 1975. Report of the British Expedition to Matienzo. 64pp + surveys + photos. The account of the expedition which surveyed about 15km in 6 months.
(T2) Mills L.D.J., Waltham A.C., 1981. Geomorphology of the Matienzo Caves. BCRA Transactions Vol 8(2), pp 63 - 84. Some speleogenesis hypotheses.
(T3) Smith P., 1981. Prehistoric remains and engravings discovered by the British Speleological Expeditions to Matienzo. BCRA Transactions Vol 8(2), pp 85 - 86.
(Y) Smith P., 1983. Iron Age Finds in Matienzo. BCRA Transactions Vol 10(3), pp 145 - 164. More up-to-date archaeological data is found for each cave in the Matienzo Update.
(BO) Corrin J., 1992. Matienzo '91 in Caves & Caving No. 55 , Spring 1992, pp 11 - 13.
(BR) Corrin J., Quin A., 1992. Matienzo '92 in Caves & Caving No. 58 , Winter 1992, pp 2 - 6.
(BZ) Corrin J., 1994. Matienzo '93 in Caves & Caving No. 63 , Spring '94, pp 24 - 27.
(CS) Corrin J., 1994. Matienzo '94 in Caves & Caving No. 66 , Winter '94, pp 10 - 14.
Corrin J., 1995. Matienzo '95 in Caves & Caving No. 70 , Winter '95, pp 24 - 27.
Corrin J., 1997. Matienzo ('96) in Caves & Caving No. 75 , Spring ''97, pp 16- 18.
Corrin J., 1998. Matienzo 1997 in Caves & Caving No. 79 , Spring '98, pp 31- 32.
Corrin J., 1999. Matienzo ('98) in Caves & Caving No. 83 , Spring '99, pp 26- 30.
Corrin J., 2000. Matienzo '99 in Caves & Caving No. 87 , Spring/Summer 2000, pp 43- 46.
Corrin Juan, 2001. Matienzo 2000. In Caves and Caving 89, Winter 2000/2001 , pp 24 - 27.
Ruiz Cobo Jesús and Smith Peter et al, 2001. The Archaeology of the Matienzo Depression, North Spain . In BAR International Series 975 , 224 pages.
Corrin J., 2003a. Expedition Report: Matienzo, Spain 2001. In Speleology Issue 2, May 2003, pp 17 - 19.
Corrin J., 2003b. Expedition Report: Matienzo, Spain 2002. In Speleology Issue 3, Sept 2003, pp 14 - 17.
Corrin Juan, 2005. Expedition Report: Matienzo, Spain 2003. In Speleology Issue 5, December 2005 BCRA, pp 10 - 14.
Corrin Juan, 2006a. Expedition Report: Matienzo, Spain 2004. In Speleology Issue 6, April 2006 BCRA, pp 20 - 23.
Corrin Juan, 2006b. Expedition Report: Matienzo, Spain 2005. In Speleology Issue 7, August 2006 BCRA, pp 22 - 25.
Corrin Juan, 2007. Expedition Report: Matienzo, Spain 2006. In Speleology Issue 9, April 2007 BCRA, pp 16 - 21.
Corrin Juan, 2007a. Expedition Report: Matienzo, Spain 2007. In Speleology Issues 10/11, December 2007 BCRA, pp 18 -24.

The Caves & Caving / Speleology references outline the discoveries over recent years. A full bibliography is also available.
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